Where are the settings to enable usage count above symbol names?

A while ago I enabled a setting in intellij that shows the usage count for certain symbols above the declaration:

I love this setting, super helpful. 

I'm working on a python project in pycharm and I wanted to enable the same setting in pycharm (if it's available), but I can't find the setting in pycharm ... and I've completely forgotten where I enabled it in intellij :P If I remember correctly it was an experimental feature, but I can't seem to find any of the experimental features in the menus or preferences. 

I've been searching around on the internet for the original forum post I came across that explained how to enable the usage count but I can't find it. All of the stuff I do find is talking about searching for the usages (which isn't as convenient as just displaying them like this). Can anyone point me to the correct setting?